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Sergio Quijano ended up in Texas by following a girl. The Mexico City native was fourteen. She was sixteen. The young lady, who is now his wife, gave him a directive. “ ‘If you really love me, you’ll come to Texas.’ And I did,” he recalls. “I was in the [best] shape of my life,” he jokes as we sit across a metal table from each other. “I was very handsome. I was a knockout. I used to practice boxing, and I had a six-pack.” Age, he claims, has gotten the better of him, but his humor remains intact. “I’ve lost my hair. I got fat,” he laughs. But from the years of working as a dishwasher through serving as wine director at Julian Barsotti’s restaurants,…

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