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The tacos al carbon, brisket chile con carne enchiladas, and pan-fried tacos from Odelay in Dallas.At Odelay, a new Tex-Mex restaurant on the edge of Park Cities in Dallas, a mural on an interior wall features a bird’s-eye view of Juárez, Mexico, at night. A propeller plane flies above the city. On the bottom left of the painting is a pile of cash; on the bottom right, a handgun. Between the money and the gun are the words: “El Señor de los Cielos,” or “Lord of the Skies.”Chef-owner Julian Barsotti denies the painting is an homage to Amado Carrillo Fuentes, the onetime leader of the Juárez cartel who died in 1997. But the references are obvious. Carrillo’s nickname was “El Señor de los Cielos,” and the narcotraficante was renowned for daring air deliveries and his large fleet of planes. Barsotti,…

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