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A spread of dishes at Katami, in Houston.The Texas restaurant scene is as delicious as it’s ever been. I said, “THE TEXAS RESTAURANT SCENE IS AS DELICIOUS AS IT’S EVER BEEN!” It is also noisy (not to mention expensive and in a state of serious flux). Last year I was all worked up about small plates and the chaos they bring to the tabletop. This year, though I indulged in many glorious bites, I found myself stewing over another unsavory development. Where is all this noisy energy coming from? Clubstaurants, mostly, and they’re here to stay. (In case you’re wondering, I didn’t make up that word.) Most restaurants cannot survive selling food alone. They need booze to stay in the black, especially in the big cities. That’s why more and more new…

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