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Some of the readers with whom I talk (and text and email) have complaints about Texas Monthly—but hardly ever about our coverage of food and drink. They praise taco editor José R. Ralat’s authoritative writing about our state’s Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine, executive editor Patricia Sharpe’s knowing columns on the latest fine-dining establishments, and barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn’s expert assessments of smoked-meat purveyors. Many of our readers have, however, voiced a suggestion: that we cover the best mom-and-pop establishments, the cozy places that offer delicious, often humble fare at reasonable prices and serve as community gathering spots for a small town or a neighborhood. They’re talking about restaurants where you might find excellent chicken-fried steak or boiled crawfish, a fragrant bowl of pho or of…

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