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Every Thursday morning Charles Brewer procures sliced oxtails from his local H-E-B. He sprinkles them liberally with TexJoy barbecue seasoning, then adds extra dashes of paprika and onion powder. After that, he smokes them over red oak and hickory for twelve to fifteen hours at his joint, Charlie’s Bar-B-Que, in Beaumont. That’s how long it takes a much bigger brisket to cook, so it might come as a surprise that a three-inch chunk of meat is equally stubborn. “It’s a long process, but the payoff is worth it,” Brewer told me. “We never have any leftovers.” Oxtails are sliced from the tail of a cow. With nose-to-tail cooking being in vogue, the cut of meat, long prized for its richness, has found new fans. The…

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