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There are three Gorditas y Sopes Samborn’s within one block of one another in San Luis Potosí, Mexico. Two are on the same block, a scant storefront apart, and the third shop is around the corner. On a late morning this August, all three were bustling with diners who marked the gordita filling they wanted on a paper menu. Runners barked the orders to the kitchen staff, struggling to be heard over the customers exclaiming their wonder at the impossibly thin gorditas. The dark yellow corn discs are cut open on one side to resemble pouches, and they are filled with chicharrones, nopales, eggs, and shredded meat, among a variety of other options. At each Samborn’s, several women in red aprons or red polos work…
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