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The Tex-Mexplainer series explores the ingredients, techniques, history, and culture of Mexican food in Texas. With three quick, even folds, Andrés M. Garza transforms a raw, thick corn tortilla into a doughy, triangular tetela. Garza works the masa discs at Nixta Taqueria, where he was recently appointed director of masa development and fermentation. I’m mesmerized by Garza’s handiwork. He makes it look so easy. But the young masa specialist says tetelas are anything but easy.However, he does give a glimpse into the expertise of the person who prepares them. “How well the tetelas are shaped when finished says a lot,” Garza says. For someone who’s just starting out, each tetela may resemble a lopsided wedge. Litmus test aside, the tetela is one of a small number of…

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