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Luis Mendoza held down two jobs in Austin to make ends meet for his family. In the mornings, he helped a baker prepare kolaches; and in the evenings, he worked as a sous chef at pioneering Mexican restaurant La Condesa. At the latter, he worked alongside some of the best chefs and taqueros in the state, including Fermín Nuñez of Suerte and Daniel Fox of Taconeta in El Paso. But it was another colleague who helped Mendoza open his own taqueria, Un Mundo de Sabor. Abraham “Flaco” Diaz, a former La Condesa butcher, owned a food truck but was looking to step away from it. Mendoza was interested in buying it from him, but it was a volatile time for the El Paso native. The young…

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