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“I have twenty-five tortilla presses,” says Leo Davila, chef and owner of Stixs & Stone in San Antonio. It might sound like bragging, but really, Davila is just fastidious about honing his tortilla-making skills. “I wanted to make corn tortillas so good me and everyone else forgot about the local flour tortillas,” he says. “I made a lot of bad tacos. I made a lot of bad tortillas too.” He tinkered with different press sizes as well as materials, from aluminum to wood to cast iron. He also brushed up on nixtamalization, learning the ideal hydration times for different corn varieties and the right water temperature for adding to the masa. Eventually, Davila figured out how to make great tortillas, but he wasn’t content. He wanted…

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