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Sitting shoulder to shoulder with other visitors in the Juan Gabriel Museum’s packed viewing room, I feel every sway and shimmy of the woman next to me. The first half of this two-hour guided tour of the Mexican pop icon’s mansion turned museum, in Juárez, is spent in rapt darkness in this room, taking in a film of the widely beloved singer-songwriter performing his greatest hits. We watch Juanga, as he’s fondly called by his millions of fans across the Spanish-speaking world, as he croons, smiles, sashays, and flirts with the audience, his Bambi eyes ringed in dark eyeliner, his face sweaty. During his 1980s dance hit, “El Noa Noa,” an homage to the Juárez bar of his youth and its welcoming vibe of joy…
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