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Shimofuri is a Japanese word with several translations. One of them is “a layer of winter frost,” which is what Wagyu beef producers in Japan mean when they describe the color of highly marbled Wagyu. The red color we associate with American beef is dimmed by the abundant white fat of Wagyu, which turns a cut of steak lighter shades of pink as the percentage of fat increases. This is what American Wagyu producers are chasing as they try to pair Japanese genetics with American feeding programs to achieve beef that could grade far above USDA prime. G Five Cattle & Meats in Sulphur Springs is doing it better than any Texas Wagyu producer I’ve tried.Last month, I pulled up to the gravel parking lot…

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