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A plastic sign along the sidewalk in Lemon Grove, California, just outside San Diego, read “Texas BBQ” in bold red letters with an arrow that pointed to Coop’s West Texas Barbecue. I was way west of West Texas, but conspicuous restaurant names like Coop’s make it easy to find smoked brisket in a foreign land. The two steel smokers out front told me I was in the right place.Bradrick Cooper, a native of Midland, opened the place in 2010. He cooks with mesquite and coast live oak trees found in California. A big barrel smoker outside is where he gets the brisket so tender; the brick smoker behind the counter inside cooks the savory pork spareribs. He also serves juicy house-made Texas hot links that…

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