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“No gross parts” is printed in parentheses next to hash and rice on the menu at City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia, South Carolina. Hash is like a cooked-down barbecue stew, and it’s a standard side dish in the state. It’s traditionally made with the parts of a whole hog—including the liver and the head—that aren’t chopped for sandwiches. At City Limits, owner and pitmaster Robbie Robinson doesn’t start with a whole hog, but he still wants his hash to taste like more than just stewed pulled pork. He grinds pork shoulder (smoked in a Texas-built Klose smoker), house-cured bacon, and brisket together, and mixes the meats with his own South Carolina–style, mustard-based barbecue sauce. It’s likely the only hash in South Carolina with brisket…

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