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After a couple of visits to Mexta, two things became clear: The restaurant, which opened in March in downtown Austin’s historic Littlefield Building, has all its bases covered, from perennial Mexican favorites (guacamole, ceviche) to exciting, lesser-seen regional specialties (pork belly encacahuatado, tikin xic salmon with xnipec salsa). Second, it intends to be the boldest Mexican restaurant in the city.Peering in from the foyer, distracted by happy-hour chatter and the whir of blenders, I looked around for half a minute before I saw my friends waving their cocktail glasses. I made my way across a room utterly transformed from the breezy white-on-white palette of the short-lived previous occupant, Simi Estiatorio. Room dividers lined with diminutive terra-cotta bricks are offset by massive copper-clad columns, huge straw…

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