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Since it opened fifty years ago this month, the Magic Time Machine has beckoned from its modest spot off Loop 410 in San Antonio, a windowless, dark-green building topped by giant domes. The eatery was initially billed as a “restaurant, bar, and discotheque” featuring costumed waitstaff, themed seating areas, a salad bar ensconced in a vintage Roadster, and something called the Roman Orgy, a roast-beef feast that arrived “with blaring trumpets and a chorus of shouting waiters and waitresses. It’s . . . well . . . a stimulating experience,” Texas Monthly reported in 1974.As a child in the seventies, I desperately wanted to go, but our visits to family in San Antonio were always so brief it never worked out. Over the years I’d pass it on the…

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