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In 2013, I did my first barbecue crawl through New York City, and smoked meats were all the rage. Hill Country Barbecue Market had recently received a glowing two-star review from the New York Times. (Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque would also get one after my visit.) Newly opened spots such as Fletcher’s Brooklyn Barbecue, John Brown BBQ, Fette Sau, and Mable’s Smokehouse impressed, and BrisketTown’s brick-and-mortar was open on the heels of the viral success of its pop-up predecessor, BrisketLab. Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue and Hometown Bar-B-Que would follow later that year in Brooklyn. But eleven years ago may have marked the high point in New York’s whirlwind affair with barbecue, because the obsession has seemingly worn off. In 2017, I went to New York to attend…

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