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Culinary purists and many Mexicans have long denigrated Tex-Mex as a bastardization of regional Mexican cooking (which is one reason why I started my Tex-Mexplainer series). At the late Urban Taco in Dallas, owner Markus Pineyro, a Mexico City native, had a cheeky doormat at the taqueria’s entrance that read “Friends Don’t Let Friends Eat Tex-Mex.” Now Pineyro, who also cofounded ghost kitchen Oomi, says he’s come around to it. “I have an appreciation for everyday Tex-Mex,” he says.That attitude has recently taken hold in Mexico City as well, especially at Coyota, a casual restaurant from chefs Cristina Rubio and Juan Escalona, who’ve come to understand Tex-Mex as a chapter in the greater narrative of Mexican food. Their friendships—such as one with Monterrey, Mexico–born, McAllen–raised…

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