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The Tex-Mexplainer series explores the ingredients, techniques, history, and culture of Mexican food in Texas. In 2008, Roy Choi rolled out his Kogi BBQ truck onto Los Angeles’s streets. The menu, which consisted of Korean grilled meats in tortillas, raised some eyebrows. But Choi knew how to leverage Twitter to draw in customers and earn national exposure. Each day, the Kogi account would tweet its location, and folks would queue up in long lines. Within two years, Korean taco trucks and shops were thriving across the U.S. Choi was heralded as the inventor of K-Mex, and the style was codified as a legitimate taco category. K-Mex wasn’t novel, though. The hybrid cuisine had been germinating in Southern California, where Korean and Mexican neighbors and workers had been…

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