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Texas had a pretty quiet night at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony on Monday, June 5, at the Chicago Lyric Opera. The only prize it won was for Best Chef: Texas—which, by definition, it couldn’t lose. That accolade was given to Benchawan Jabthong Painter, of Street to Kitchen, a Thai restaurant in Houston offering dishes such as stir-fried cashew chicken (with banana chiles and mushrooms) and classic tom yum hot-and-sour soup.The final tally was a stunning comedown from the list of 41 Texas semifinalists for the awards generally referred to as the Oscars of the restaurant industry. There had still been hope when that number was pared to 13 after the first round of eliminations. But that small hope was dashed when,…

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