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For me, the peak of Mexican cuisine was always the quesadilla. At any taqueria, it was an easy order for a kid. I loved them served the customary way—queso asado between two hand-pressed corn tortillas—but I also loved the variations. At a taqueria called Pancho Villa, a short walk from where I grew up in the Bay Area, the cooks would take one of the huge flour tortillas they used for burritos, fill it with queso quesadilla, and fold it up like an envelope. Then they’d fry it on the same grill they used for the carne asada. The result—a quesadilla suiza—was simple and gorgeous. Those quesadillas were baptized on a seasoned grill; I was baptized in holy water.When it comes to Mexican food, I…

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