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If you’ve been paying attention to the culinary world the past few years, you know that foods that have been cured, pickled, fermented, and otherwise deliciously enhanced are “having a moment,” as they say. Humans have been preserving food for eons, but there’s nothing like a global pandemic to get folks in a back-to-basics mindset, diligently nursing sourdough babies and cultivating a newfound appreciation for things that are fleeting.None of that is new to chef Steve McHugh, who opened his San Antonio restaurant Cured in 2013. His approach to cooking has long celebrated the ideas of plenitude and preservation and capturing the momentary vibrancy of life’s seasons, terrestrial and otherwise. It’s a hard-won philosophy for the six-time James Beard Award–nominated chef, who nearly saw his…

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