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From afar, the new exhibition at the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth looks like a collection of colorful leaves piled on the museum’s ground floor. But once viewers step into the concrete ellipse at its center, they are quickly immersed in a barbecue universe. Rebecca Manson, whose Barbecue installation opened last week, estimates she crafted and composed 50,000 individual ceramic pieces (though the official description credits a mere 45,000).Manson grew up in New York, where she still lives and works. Her father has always been the cook of the household in the summer. “The Weber grill is his stove,” Manson told me when we met at the museum. Lamb chops and beef steaks have always been his specialties. “As he gets older, the meat…

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