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First-time visitors to the Perini Ranch Steakhouse are easy to spot. They’re the ones standing beside their cars in a gravel lot filled with giant pickups, peering around and muttering under their breath, “Where’s the steakhouse? Is it really that little wood building with the weathered screen door and a Mrs Baird’s bread sign?” Yep. The low-slung structure is in fact the best-known country steakhouse in Texas, and owners Tom and Lisa Perini like it just the way it is. Located right outside the tiny West Texas town of Buffalo Gap, the steakhouse is turning forty this year, a run that would be impressive for a restaurant in a major city, never mind a small place off a two-lane blacktop in the middle of nowhere…

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