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As a barbecue fan, I couldn’t wait to get to the highly touted Bar-A-BBQ in Montgomery. As a food writer, I probably should have given it more than a week to settle into its new building. While the location is new, this isn’t the joint’s first rodeo. Cooper Abercrombie and his wife, Shelby, have been serving barbecue since 2019 at pop-ups around their hometown of Montgomery, an hour northwest of downtown Houston. Last year, they picked up a retired ice cream truck in Amarillo and outfitted it for barbecue. Just a few weeks ago, they moved the business into a refinished house on the main drag in Montgomery. “We haven’t cooked a protein the same two days in a row since we got into this…

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