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The agnolotti, Forget Me Not cocktail, cauliflower, Fingers Crossed cocktail, and scallion hotcakes.“Here’s your Chicken 65,” announced our server. We stared at the bowl, steam rising from the heap of golden brown nibbles of fried meat. You’d expect to find the southern Indian snack in a casual setting (of the many theories regarding the name, one posits that it was created at a hotel in Chennai in 1965). But what was it doing at a smart-looking restaurant in a fancy new Houston development? I popped a toasty bite in my mouth. Oh. “Chicken nuggets of the gods” might be going too far, but these tender morsels had a lot going on: expert frying, complex spice (curry leaf, ginger, mustard seed), a glaze of glossy chile-butter sauce. My friends and I devoured piece after piece. Our server confirmed that…

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