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The first time Joey Victorian really noticed anything about Mart, it was a “for sale” sign on one of its historic downtown buildings. He was driving from his home in northwest Houston into Waco to visit the Magnolia Market, aka the Silos, and drove through the tiny town of fewer than two thousand residents. (One of its native sons is actor Jesse Plemons.) Victorian called the number on the sign, but the building had just sold. Three months later, in early 2022, the sellers reached out after the original deal fell through. Victorian bought it and another empty building the next block over, and he finally had a home for his barbecue joint.I first tried Victorian’s barbecue when he set up a food truck in…

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