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As an Austinite in the food and wine industry, people often ask about my favorite restaurants in town. My standard answer has long started, “Other than Uchi . . .” Considering the perpetually booked reservation list and the nightly stream of walk-ins who willingly wait an hour or so for a table, I’m pretty sure I’m not the only one who responds this way.This month, the Japanese-inspired sushi restaurant celebrated twenty years, which, considering how hard it is to keep a restaurant in business, is quite a feat. But Uchi did much more than keep its doors open—it revolutionized the dining scene in Austin. It all began with a restaurant dishwasher named Tyson Cole. Raised in the Woodlands, Cole had been looking for a post-college career path and…

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