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The lobster shooters at the late Abacus helped make chef Kent Rathbun famous in Dallas, but he was also on the leading edge of the local barbecue boom over a decade ago. In 2010, Rathbun was smoking briskets, ribs, and pork shoulders in front of Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen in Preston Center for BBQ Mondays (three years prior, his ribs at Jasper’s were called some of the best in America by Bon Appétit). Blue Plate Kitchen closed in 2014, and his upscale barbecue restaurant Hickory, in Plano, had been open just a year when it closed in 2016 (a location still operates inside Terminal D at DFW Airport without Rathbun’s involvement). Then Rathbun’s barbecue went underground.Rathbun’s Curbside BBQ was an admittedly rogue operation when it…

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