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Mercado Juárez isn’t a traditional Mexican municipal market. The building on the outskirts of Aguascalientes doesn’t display bluish-gray bulbs of huitlacoche on the cob. There aren’t any chile vendors or butchers calling out their specials from behind hanging chickens. There aren’t even stalls loaded with memorabilia such as marionettes, religious icons, or soccer jerseys. There are, however, vendors of the traditional huarache sandals and birria—a lot of birria. It’s through the dish that Mercado Juárez gets its nickname—El Mercado de la Birria, or Birria Market—as I saw when I walked through it during a recent trip to Aguascalientes.The central Mexican city, established in 1575, may not be familiar to most Americans and Texans. It’s located six hours northwest of Mexico City and about three hours…

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