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In the history of tortilla-swaddled dishes, the taco al pastor is a young’un. Yet, despite being only about sixty years old, it’s considered an iconic Mexico City dish. And it’s the namesake of El Pastor Es Mi Señor in San Antonio.A taco al pastor is certainly beautiful. But beauty takes work. First, there is the meat, usually pork shoulder or butt, sliced thinly and marinated in a mix of chiles, citrus, and spices. It might come as a surprise, but cinnamon is often included in the marinade. Next, there is the trompo. Spanish for “spinning top,” trompo is both the name for the vertical rotisserie and the assembled, stacked meat. The finished product is a sparkling tower of pork: orangey-red with spots of char, the stratified…

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