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Not so long ago, Austin was the Texas capital of farmers’ markets, hippie soup peddlers, anarchist freegans, and grocery co-ops. They embodied the city’s prevalent anti-consumerist ethos: many Austinites once looked askance at big box stores and food sold in layer after layer of plastic. After all, Whole Foods, a grocer dedicated to providing eco-friendly, organic produce, was born out of that scene. But in the era of Amazon, which now owns Whole Foods, and a proliferation of venture capital–funded fast-casual restaurant chains, not to mention the local population’s dorkily overstated enthusiasm for supermarket behemoth H-E-B, Austin has lately forgotten one of the better parts of itself.It takes an artist to remind us that there are other, more radical ways to think about what we…

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