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The chicken-fried Wagyu sirloin.I was definitely expecting a restaurant dedicated to Texas eats to have some typical Texas touches. You know, a cowhide or two on the floor, a braided lariat on the wall, bandanna napkins. Makes sense, right? But the designers of Wild Oats had a different idea for this three-month-old spot, located in the newly revamped Houston Farmers Market. They went for knotty-pine benches, oilcloth-covered tables, and a checkerboard linoleum floor. The only buckaroo touch in evidence was near the bar, where rows of cowboy hats were mounted on the wall like so many deer trophies. This place is not about the Texas of big skies and wide-open spaces, the decor seemed to be saying. It’s about your grandmother’s kitchen. “We are just scratching the surface of…

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