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On the final evening of the San Lorenzo Catholic Church kermés, families fill the church grounds as the golden hour casts its light on a vinyl sign hanging above the busiest booth at the bazaar.The sign reads: “Gorditas—Heavenly Made.”The line in front of the booth, which more than tripled in length that past hour, suggests visitors are willing to wait for a taste of heaven—deep fried patties made from corn masa, filled with seasoned ground beef plus shredded lettuce and diced tomato.It’s kermés season in El Paso, a marathon of church bazaars from late July through mid-October, hosted mostly by the Catholic parishes.Kermeses serve as the biggest fundraiser of the year for many churches, setting up carnival games, cake walks, and raffles. Larger kermeses, such as…

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