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Since last summer, the small East Texas town of Winnsboro has seen its barbecue fortunes rise. Three different joints have opened, which is unusual for a town of 3,500 people that’s not along a major highway. I drove there on a recent Saturday to see what was smoking, and to find out if this town’s appetite was big enough for such a rapid infusion.Exiting Interstate 30 in Sulphur Springs, I resisted the urge to stop at Slaughter’s BBQ Oasis, an impressive food truck that’s completing renovations on its brick-and-mortar. Instead, I drove thirty minutes to reach Winnsboro. The sign for Coyote Smoke BBQ came into view just as I entered city limits. Wylie Smithwick reopened his truck in June after acquiring the land it sits…

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