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A deep-fried avocado stuffed with shredded beef and cheese and topped with cilantro.Nowadays, we employ avocados mainly as the creamy base for guacamole, as chunky wedges that sit atop tacos and tostadas, and as artfully fanned slices that adorn combination plates. But back in the seventies and eighties, the buttery green fruit appeared on many home and restaurant tables as the main course or appetizer: stuffed avocado. Lucky for us, the retro delicacy is making a comeback. The dish features fruit that’s been cut in half lengthwise, pitted, then served open-faced or reassembled. The cavity left in the flesh is filled with a sweet or savory mixture; half a century ago, that would have been potato chip–topped tuna salad or crushed pineapple with French dressing. Now it’s more likely to be chilled shrimp salad or barbacoa. The stuffed avocado…

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