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Bob Pitcock had had enough. The sales associate at the Allsup’s convenience store and gas station in Clovis, New Mexico, was tired of customers not buying the baked burritos sitting in the countertop warming box. The sales of doughnuts—fried fresh daily in the store—were steady. So, on September 7, 1974, in a moment of desperation—one that would nearly get him fired—Pitcock dropped the burritos into the fryer. The tortilla-wrapped parcels of ground beef and refried beans came out golden brown and sold out immediately. The inside of the shop, which didn’t have a vent, smelled like a grease trap.Later that afternoon—as Brian Ashburn, chief retail operations officer of Yesway (the parent company of Allsup’s), tells it—Lonnie Allsup, founder of the chain, walked from the company…

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