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Having contacts, scouts, and friends across the state is essential for food writers like myself. When I sent my Laredo tattooer my itinerary for a visit, he waited until I was in his shop to give it to me straight. “I thought it was best to say this to your face, but your list is trash,” said Gabriel Rodriguez, co-owner of Por Vida Tattoos. He did me a solid by giving me a handful of recommendations, including Proyecto Humo, a taco truck owned and operated by chef-taquero Luis Lara. Proyecto Humo (Spanish for Project Smoke) is difficult to find. It didn’t help that I was in the historic border town during the first heat wave of the summer. My skin burned from the triple-digit temperatures as…

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