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A post oak fire burns overnight inside a smoker in the basement of a high-rise building in uptown Corpus Christi. I went searching for breakfast at AEP Texas, an electric utility company, where I heard brisket kolaches (or klobasniky, if you prefer) could be found. Down a flight of stairs from the lobby was a small food court with just one vendor operating (the other closed eight months ago). Taste at 555, which is named after its address, 555 North Carancahua, opened here in 2022. One of the stipulations owner Ricci Neer required in the lease was that she’d be able to bring her smoker, an Ole Hickory model designed to fit under a vent hood. Because, like everything else on the menu, the brisket…
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