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Sam Palomarez has two birthdays. “One in August and October,” he told me as we sat outside Dozier’s BBQ, in Fulshear, just west of Houston. His son, Sammy, explained that the family had always celebrated Sam’s birthday on October 10, but when Sam tried to get his Social Security a decade ago, the state records indicated his birthday was two months earlier. But perhaps a more significant milestone is the day in 1965 when—at around fifteen years old—Sam left home to work at Ed Dozier Jr.’s meat market. He’s been making the sausage there ever since.Dozier was born in 1917 in Terlingua, where his dad manned a store in the tiny West Texas border town. After Dozier graduated from high school in Alpine, the family…

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