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There are many reasons to order the snake at 61 Osteria, but the most important is that it’s not rattlesnake. No, this snake is the Serpente, a sixteen-inch-long, dramatically coiled pasta that has quickly become the must-have dish at Fort Worth’s new must-visit restaurant. The novel creation, with pretty serrated edges, comes filled withricotta, lavished with a Meyer lemon beurre blanc, and surrounded by buttery sautéed hen of the woods mushrooms. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen before, and it’s the handiwork of executive chef Blaine Staniford, who, with restaurateur Adam Jones, has long been at the forefront of the city’s maturing dining scene. For decades, Cowtown had a reputation as a place where easygoing joints such as Joe T. Garcia’s and Fred’s Texas Cafe thrived but…

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