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Think of a cozy fire burning inside a brick fireplace. As the flames lick the wood, hot coals fall down through the thick metal rack that supports the logs. That rack is called an andiron, after which Michael Sambrooks named his latest Houston restaurant. Sambrooks describes Andiron, which opened just five weeks ago, as “a modern, progressive version of a steakhouse.” It’s swanky—both in design and menu—but the kitchen runs on the rustic fuel of post oak logs and hardwood lump charcoal. “Where there’s smoke,” reads the sign on the corner of the building pointing to the entrance. You first see smoke on the walls and ceilings, which are made of wood planks with burnt surfaces, a Japanese process of shou sugi ban. Bronze accents,…
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