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A variety of meats at J-Bar-M BBQ in Houston.Fifty years ago, John Toomey opened a barbecue joint in downtown Houston. It closed five years later. He’s been thinking about his next restaurant ever since. “It’s something I wanted to do all my life,” he said, but working in the family real estate and car dealership businesses took priority. Finally, at 93 years old, he fulfilled his wish with J-Bar-M BBQ, his new restaurant in the EaDo neighborhood, just a mile and half from his first venture.Toomey grew up in the Riverside neighborhood of Houston. At twelve years old, he built a barbecue pit in his backyard with bricks he’d stolen from a nearby construction site. His favorite barbecue was at Matt Garner’s Bar-B-Q, a legendary haunt on West Gray. After Garner’s closed, Toomey hired…

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