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“We’re sold out of barbacoa,” Daniel Sanchez, co-owner of El Sancho Tex Mex BBQ in Mission, told me in his soft, purposeful tone. “This is the Valley. Barbacoa is king; it sells out first.” Of course I knew how quickly barbacoa is gobbled up by customers across the Rio Grande Valley, especially on weekends. But only two hours had passed since the trailer, parked behind Jitterz Coffee Roasters, opened on the Saturday I visited. Barbacoa wasn’t the only meat that was unavailable. Carnitas and sausage were also gone. All that was left was brisket. My sense of defeat was deepening and the large Americano in my hand was beginning to scald my palm.I went with the mesquite-smoked brisket in a Truchador taco. (The brisket is…

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