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I’m walking behind my guide at Mayfield Park when I see the first peacock: a black-shouldered male. He is standing on the tree above me with his long green train dangling so that its tip is mere inches above my head. As I strain my neck and shield my eyes from the sun to watch him, I almost walk right into two more birds—Persian peahens, this time, which are gray with green necks. They are closer to me now than a pigeon or grackle would dare. I round a corner to find a Persian male on full display, his train fanned out into a royal semicircle (you can tell he’s a Persian, my guide tells me, by the checkered pattern on his shoulder). Next to…

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