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Clifton Bolner wanted out of the grocery business. He had worked for his grandfather, Joe Bolner Jr., since he was a child, and, with typical Texas swagger, he was looking for a way to prove his own worth. Joe had immigrated from Italy to Mexico and then settled in San Antonio, opening a grocery store there in 1906. After graduating from Texas A&M University in 1949 and serving as a second lieutenant in the Air Force, Clif, as he was known, felt there wasn’t space for him in his father’s business. Then, in 1955, 25-year-old Clif saw a newspaper advertisement announcing that a fledgling spice company housed in a 1,200-square-foot building was for sale by its retiring owner, Mr. Van Zandt. The asking price was…

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