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The first time I tried Doug Pickering’s barbecue was nearly a decade ago at the late Work bar in the Deep Ellum neighborhood of Dallas. He was ahead of the curve in Dallas in 2013. Before Pecan Lodge made its move to Deep Ellum, Pickering was serving craft barbecue inside a sports bar. He refers to that time as his barbecue internship. His newest venture, which opened in University Park’s Snider Plaza in May, is anything but a joint. Through the wooden door is a well-appointed bar. Tables are set with cloth napkins, silverware, and stemware. Reservations are recommended for dinner, when steaks and seafood outshine the barbecue, which includes the most expensive smoked brisket I’ve seen in Texas.The $44-per-pound price for brisket would be…

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