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A dinner at the Rancho Pillow hotel, in Round Top, part of the Feasts in the Field series, on March 28, 2022.When I arrived in Round Top, locals warned me that the opening day of the Marburger Farm Antique Show looked like Spain’s running of the bulls. Improbable as this sounded to me, it was an apt comparison. As soon as the metal triangle rang out at 9 a.m. on the last Tuesday in March, hundreds of fidgety shoppers ducked under the yellow caution tape and beat a path toward the market’s buildings and commercial tents—five as large as a football field. Those too self-conscious to break into a gallop awkwardly power walked as if their names had just been called from the stage at the Oscars. The experienced professionals were easy to spot in the surging crowd: they moved in like a SWAT team with their…

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