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My fellow Texans, the state of our tacos is strong. But first, a recap. In my “Ultimate Texas Tacopedia,” published in November 2020, I chronicled the diversity of tacos and the remarkable resilience of the taquerias that continued to sell them amid a pandemic. I found tortilla-based businesses getting creative in not only how they served their customers (even high-end Mexican restaurants pivoted to takeout taco kits) but in what they served (many spots stayed open by doubling down on Instagram trends, such as the suddenly ubiquitous birria, usually in the form of an orange-hued, cheesy-shelled taco full of chile-braised beef and served with consommé for dipping). We’ve lost treasures since then (RIP Taco Stop, in Dallas, and Trill Taqueria, in Austin), but we’ve also seen…

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