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Sonia Margarita Vasquez-Grizzle speaks gently. The tenor of her voice belies the grit the 55-year-old owner of Margarita’s Tortilla Factory has employed to overcome myriad obstacles, including a recent bout with cancer. Just like its owner, the San Antonio tortilleria is unassuming. Located in an industrial neighborhood, the small building features corrugated metal siding; inside, a rolling metal table is used as a cashier’s counter. The utilitarian interior also includes a diner-style coffee maker, the menu written on a mirror, and clusters of chairs in the corners. All the frills are overlooked in favor of creating a superior product.I first encountered that with the smell of corn that permeates the air. Then, I sampled one of the nixtamalized yellow corn tortillas with a smear of…
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