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Siblings Francisco “Paco” Carmona and Paola Buentello grew up in their family’s barbecue business in Eagle Pass, an hour south of Del Rio and directly across the border from Piedras Negras, Mexico. He was two years old and she was one when their late grandfather Hugo Buentello and their mother, Selena Buentello Price, opened the Wagon Wheel in 1994. They sold barbecue and other goods from a drive-through building. “You grabbed your beer, your deer corn, your brisket sandwich, and you were off to the ranch,” Carmona said. I first visited the joint ten years ago, and when I returned to try it again last month, so much had changed—including the location—that I didn’t even realize it was the same business. Hugo passed away in…

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